TOPIC:

Completely new to running lead on boards. My first question is with a 2 color spread how much backing should I spool on first. Second question is what is better to run off these, do shallow cranks favor on a couple colors of lead vs just running them flat lined or is this setup mostly used for just spoons or whatnot? Just want to add another tool to help me cover more water.

My currant set up is usually 2 riggers, 2 long lines, 2 dispy/ or regular boards. I think adding two more boards with weighted line would help me cover more water to find the fish.

How much backing? As much as possible usually. After awhile you get a feel on where to stop based on how much lead or copper needs to be put on. The size of the reel isn't too critical with a 2 color setup but with longer lines bigger reels are needed.

Make sure to have about 30' of flouro or mono leader from the end of the lead to the bait. I also let the lead/copper out 10-20' minimum before I attach to the board. And never attach the lead or copper line to the board.

I run everything off of long line setups. Body baits, spoons, dodger/fly, and spin doctors and they can be very productive. For coho, any of your typical coho baits will work.

what safe cracker said. Also wanted to note when attaching lead to any fluoro or any backer I like to use a Willis knot. Has never failed and it is fairly simple once you get the hang of it.

thanks for the advice guys. one last question... from the clip on the board is there any rule of thumb of how much space you leave between the mainline and where the lead line starts? Or is it as long as the clips are on the backing and not the lead you're considered good?

No general rule I would say. I give it 5-10 feet.

Always check the connection spot on the backer line to the board. It can get nicked and become a spot for failure.

I use 150 yds of 40 pound braid as backing. It is strong and will last near forever on my leadcore setups. I use 27 # leadcore line by Sufix. I use a 20 ft section of 20# florocarbon as a leader. I have connected the FC to the lead by using the willis knot or I have used barrel swivels also. Changing the FC is faster when using the barrel swivel when its time for it. Plus you don't have to keep shortening the lead core to retie your willis knot. I like using decreasing line strengths to limit where my line can break when snagged or a big fish hooks up. I want the 20# to break first and so on. I forgot to mention that I use an albright knot on the braid to lead core connection.

I prefer a leader that's a little more stout, especially offshore from the late spring on. It gives better abrasion resistance and we rarely have a break off.

20# Fluoro for me - never had a failure.

In the beginning I was using 20 lbs test but I sometimes would get lazy when the fish are biting and not check the line before sending in back out. I would have a break off it seemed every trip offshore when we had a 10 to 12 plus fish trip. Bitch was most of my break off came on my meet rigs. Those get expensive and the thought of loosing kings sucks. After I jumped up in test the problem went away but I also try to check more often. I know use 25 to 30 lbs test depending on the brand. I do really like the blood run stuff.